The White Tree Frog is the common name given to the Dryopsophus caeruleus, better known by its former scientific name Litoria caerulea. Also known as the Carulean Treefrog, this tree frog is native to New Guinea or Australia, depending on the lineage.
It can be recognized by its complexion, which is generally pale green on the back (or light brown), and pinkish-white on the belly. A little sticky, it is considered one of the “best” amphibians for breeding, due to its ease of maintenance, temperament, docility, and its smile.
- 0.1 Size and weight
- 0.2 Life expectancy
- 0.3 What does a White’s tree frog eat?
- 0.4 How to handle Dryopsophus caeruleus
- 1 Which terrarium for a White Tree Frog?
- 2 Heat, humidity and lighting
- 3 Reproduction of the White Treefrog
- 4 Where to find a White’s tree frog
- 5 Can they live together?
Size and weight
White Treefrogs are generally between 10 and 12 cm long for females and between 8 and 11 cm for males when fully grown.
A Litoria Caerulea can live between 7 and 15 years if its owner takes good care of it. Some specimens have even exceeded 20 years in captivity.
What does a White’s tree frog eat?
The ex Litoria caerulea is an insectivore, which means it feeds on insects. Here’s the list: crickets, grasshoppers, cockroaches, earthworms, mealworms, dubias and hive moths.
- Juvenile Dryopsophus caeruleus should be fed daily for around 15 minutes. The insects should be sprinkled with a supplement (calcium and vitamin D3). Repashy Superfood does the trick.
- Adult White treefrogs, should be fed about 3 times a week, with 3 to 6 insects per meal, depending on size. Once a week, add a calcium supplement such as Repashy Superfood.
Important information : There’s no precise rule for the portion of food, but try to dose according to the size of your frog. If you see it getting too big, lower the dose. White tree frogs in captivity tend to be overfed, and become obese, which is very dangerous. A sign of obesity can be a kind of bulge above the eyes.
How to handle Dryopsophus caeruleus
Handling is not generally recommended if not necessary. Indeed, their skin is quite thin, and easily absorbs toxins or other bacteria from our hands. Ideally, use powder-free plastic gloves. If you don’t have any, always wash your hands well, and keep them a little damp for gripping 😉
Which terrarium for a White Tree Frog?
To keep a Dryopsophus caeruleus (ex Litoria Caerulea), prefer glass terrariums, closed or with a grid as a ceiling. A front opening is highly recommended. Clean the glass regularly, as the remains of moults and mucus are ideal for bacterial growth. A high terrarium is an excellent choice for these small tree frogs.
A terrarium of 60 x 45 x 60 cm is ideal, but don’t hesitate to choose a larger one (high and wide) for your adult tree frogs. Juvenile Litoria caerulea should not, however, be kept in a terrarium that is too large.
Substrate for White Treefrog
The substrate must not be dangerous if ingested, and must maintain a certain level of humidity.Coconut fiber is therefore an ideal substrate, in addition to its antibacterial properties. You can add reptile bedding or pebbles (large enough not to be eaten and not sharp) to prevent the substrate sticking to your frog.
However, avoid foam, which can cause severe indigestion and even death of your frog!
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Decoration & water source
To decorate the terrarium, but also to prevent tree frogs from trying to escape, place cork bark blackout plates on the back wall of your vivarium, as well as on the sides. You can also attach perches for your tree frogs.
Give preference to classic green plants and plastic plants to avoid toxicity or other problems. Also create hiding places or slightly elevated spots with stones that aren’t too rambunctious.
Last but not least, frogs need a watering hole to drink and increase humidity, but also to bathe in. They are, however, very poor swimmers, so choose a container not too deep from which they can get out easily.
Heat, humidity and lighting
We must reproduce our animal’s natural biotope as closely as possible. This process obviously involves respecting the lighting, temperature and humidity levels necessary for the ex litoria caerulea’s well-being. The following points should therefore be followed carefully.
Terrarium temperature for Dryopsophus caeruleus
The average temperature within the terrarium should be between 25 and 29°C during the day, and between 20 and 24°C at night.
The hot spot in the terrarium generated by a heat lamp (inaccessible to your amphibian) is where it will be warmest in the vivarium. It should not exceed 29-30°C during the day, and 24-25°C degrees at night (12h day / 12h night).
UVA and UVB lighting
White Treefrogs are frogs that require UVB like not many, so you need a UV-neonBadequate 5.0. This applies even if you feed them enough calcium, D3 or other supplements.
If you need to heat the terrarium at night too, use a blue/violet colored lamp. This will give your tree frogs a nighttime feel.
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The White Treefrog doesn’t need much humidity. It needs a humidity level of 45-60% for babies and juveniles, and 30-40% for adults. Use a digital hygrometer to properly measure humidity levels.
A bowl of water for bathing and drinking, plus a few mistings is enough to achieve this level of hygrometry. To do this, you can use a manual mister or an electric mister. Be sure to treat tap water with reptisafe to avoid harming your amphibian’s rather fragile skin.
Reproduction of the White Treefrog
For reproduction, we’ll need to simulate the rainy period, because that’s when it happens.
- First, you’ll need to lower the temperature to between 15.5°C and 21°C and stop spraying.
- After around 5-6 weeks, gradually increase the temperature and humidity again (brumize). Feed your frog well.
- When the males start singing and the females get bigger, put them in a rain chamber.
How to make a rain chamber?
To create a rain chamber, use a fairly tall (deep) terrarium or aquaterrarium. In the latter, you’ll create a small pond with a water pump so that the water “rains” continuously. Put in green plants, perches and climbing equipment.
The bottom of the terrarium is made up of two parts: a “pond” and a substrate bank. The frogs need to be able to move easily between the two.
Water must be heated to 28°C and simulate rainy season showers with a pump. You can cut holes in the pump pipes if necessary to recreate the “rain effect”.
During mating, the tree frog will scatter its eggs on the surface of the water or on nearby leaves.
Where to find a White’s tree frog
There are several ways to buy this frog: in a pet shop, from a breeder, or at a show.
Buying from a pet shop
This can be a good solution, depending on the pet shop, but beware of charlatans who will do anything to sell. Use this sheet as a guide, rather than their unprofessional advice. Also check that the frog is well maintained in the pet shop, and in good health (no scars either)! Rescuing a poorly kept animal is a good deed in itself, but it will require a lot of effort and care on the one hand, and reward the pet shop’s mistreatment on the other.
Purchase from a breeder
This is generally a good choice, as the breeder really knows how to look after her (at first sight). Check that this is the case, that she’s in good health, and that it’s not a scam if you buy her over the Internet.
Buying at an exhibition
Buying at a show is also a good option, as you can see the tree frog for yourself. You can talk to the breeder, but also to the serious professionals in the room.
Can they live together?
No danger, even for several males! If your tree frogs weren’t in the same terrarium before you bought them, quarantine them for 2 months before bringing them together. This will give you time to check whether they’re sick or have any other problems, and prevent them from spreading. Buy a large terrarium if you plan to house several amphibians.